relaxing after a long travel day | added to our collection of novelty photos<\/figcaption><\/figure>\nDecember 8 + 9 + 10<\/strong>: Before I left for Australia, several of my former coworkers issued the same warnings: \u201cIt\u2019s a long way to go<\/em>,\u201d they said. \u201cYou\u2019re going to feel like you\u2019ve stepped off the plane and into Santa Monica<\/em>.\u201d And respectfully, I must reply: WHAT IS EVERYONE TALKING ABOUT?! <\/p>\nAs an American, Melbourne is a radical experience. A totally walkable city? Free public transit in commercial districts? Clean streets? Small businesses everywhere? Free college that only needs to be paid back once you\u2019re earning over $75,000? Covered healthcare? And it was far more afforable than several of our major American cities, to boot (though this was mainly aided by the conversion rate \u2013 $60 USD is worth $100 AUD!).<\/p>\n\npersonality-filled businesses in an alley | a timeless shopping arcade<\/figcaption><\/figure>\nAll that to say: I LOVED IT. I loved the slew of small businesses that dotted every alleyway. I loved the centuries-old arcades, peppered with petite storefronts. I loved the free tram, and the friendly people, and the thoughtfully-planned city layout. If you\u2019re new to international travel, Melbourne would be a FABULOUS first destination. <\/p>\n
What to See<\/strong>: We stayed at the Langham, right off the Yarra river in the heart of the city. I can\u2019t recommend that location enough \u2013 it\u2019s walkable to EVERYTHING. We loved exploring the CBD (\u201ccentral business district\u201d \u2013 a very popular descriptor outside of America!), were particularly fond of The Block Arcade, and had a blast at the Queen Victoria Market. (Grab a bite from one of the specialty vendors first, then head outside to walk the aisles \u2013 if you love a flea market or swap meet, this will be right up your alley.) The Shrine of Remembrance and Botanical Gardens are also really beautiful, if you have time! <\/p>\nWhat to Skip<\/strong>: The Skydeck at the Eureka Tower. If you\u2019ve been to the top of a tall building, I\u2019m sure you can imagine what this is like. Your ears will pop on the elevator, though, which is always fun. <\/p>\n<\/span>Uluru<\/span><\/h2>\n\nflying over uluru | the australian outback from above<\/figcaption><\/figure>\nDecember 11 + 12<\/strong>: After 3 days in Melbourne, we board a 3 hour flight to the heart of the Australian outback. We\u2019re on our way to Uluru \u2013 formerly known as Ayers Rock \u2013 and the scenery is breathtaking. <\/p>\n\nuluru lit up during sunset | cheers!!!!<\/figcaption><\/figure>\nWe hopped off the plane and headed straight to Uluru, a massive 550-million-year-old sandstone monolith. It\u2019s a sacred spot for the indigenous Anangu people \u2013 located nearly 300 miles from the nearest town \u2013 and it\u2019s magnificent. It feels holy. That night, we gathered to watch the rock change colors as the sun set. This was the place Brenda was most excited to visit and I\u2019ve gotta hand it to her: she was right. Uluru is incredible. <\/p>\n\nmutitjulu watering hole | art by joy jackson<\/figcaption><\/figure>\nI\u2019m going to get real with you for a second: the bugs are out of control. It\u2019s not a myth or an exaggeration! Upon opening our hotel closet, we discovered 2 robes and a huge can of flying insect spray; I found ants in my bed; I will spare you a photo of insects feasting on a huge dead bug in our room. Outside is even worse \u2013 the next morning, when we embarked on a quick hike to the Mutitjulu Watering Hole, our tour guide handed out netted face masks. (We were in the minority who didn\u2019t wear them, if that\u2019s any indication of how many freakin\u2019 bugs are out there.) <\/p>\n
But it didn\u2019t matter \u2013 we had such an incredible experience here. Uluru has been a meeting place for the Anangu for millennia, so the energy is wonderful. We stopped in to Walkatjara Art at the Cultural Center and I bought this piece by Joy Jackson \u2013 I can\u2019t wait to get it framed! <\/p>\n
What to See<\/strong>: Uluru, obviously. The cultural center is absolutely worth your time (just leave the camera \u2013 no photos allowed!). And if you want to buy art, buy it in Uluru! Your payment will go directly to the artist. <\/p>\nWhat to Skip<\/strong>: We only spent one night here. And honestly, after watching the bug buffet next to my bed, I think one night is likely enough. <\/p>\n<\/span>Cairns, Daintree, & The Great Barrier Reef<\/span><\/h2>\nwhy is this the only static photo i took?! <\/figcaption><\/figure>\nDecember 13 + 14 + 15<\/strong>: After our morning jaunt, we hopped on a 3 hour flight to Cairns. We landed in the middle of major storm, so we nixed our rainforest gondola plans (we had been hoping to ride the Sky Rail Cableway!) and then caught a 2 hour bus ride to the Daintree Rainforest. We lucked into a room at the Silky Oaks Lodge, an indoor\/outdoor hotel right on the Mossman River. It\u2019s buried in the middle of the rainforest and so unbelievable that I forgot to take photos. (At least I was living in the moment, I guess.) The A\/C barely worked; the power went out; bugs filled the tub \u2013 DIDN\u2019T MATTER. It was extraordinary. I\u2019d do anything to go back!!! <\/p>\n\nhow many fish can you spot?<\/figcaption><\/figure>\nThe next day, I checked a massive dream off my miles-long bucket list: we got to snorkel at the Great Barrier Reef. THREE TIMES, GUYS! I\u2019m still pinching myself. We visited three different sites \u2013 The Botanic Gardens, The Paddocks, and The Chapel \u2013 and it was otherworldly. I only wish my GoPro could capture better colors! <\/p>\n\nabsolutely stunning | the size of that clam shell!!! <\/figcaption><\/figure>\nBut as it turns out, December is high jellyfish season. We did have to wear special protective suits that covered everything (that\u2019s why I look so beautiful in the opener to this post, clearly), but I\u2019d do it again in a heartbeat. If you\u2019re interested in snorkeling but worried about your skill level, don\u2019t fret \u2013 you can still wear a life jacket! I\u2019d HIGHLY recommend this to anyone and everyone. <\/p>\n\nwe loved ballooning! | watching a balloon from our balloon<\/figcaption><\/figure>\nThe next day, we woke up at 3 AM for a long drive down to Mareeba. This was a surprise from Brenda, and it was WONDERFUL. We hopped in our balloon for what was supposed to be a 30 minute ride during sunset, but our balloon had other thoughts \u2013 we soared above the bush for over an hour before \u201cbomb landing\u201d (their term, not ours) in a field surrounded by power lines. We braced in our spots and prepared to tip over as balloon staff worked to physically push our basket into a safer spot. (One truck may or may not have been lost in a ditch in the mad dash to make it to our landing site.) <\/p>\n
Would I do it again? ABSO-FREAKIN\u2019-LUTELY. I think you should, too! (Just don\u2019t try it in America \u2013 it only requires 20 hours of training here, compared to more than 50 in Australia. We were in super capable hands, despite traveling farther than anticipated!) <\/p>\n\na grey kangroo | the cutest wombat<\/figcaption><\/figure>\nYEAH, I KNOW. We\u2019re finally getting to the good stuff!!! The next day, we packed our bags and hit the road. Our first stop? Hartley\u2019s Crocodile Adventures. Is a crocodile terrorizing your farm? Send him to Hartley\u2019s. Croc eat your cow? Hartley\u2019s. Croc seemingly having health trouble? Off to Hartley\u2019s! <\/p>\n
Hartley\u2019s also takes care of a number of grey kangaroos, wallabies, wombats, koalas, snakes, birds. We scored an invite to their kangaroo and wallaby enclosure, where I FELL IN LOVE. <\/p>\n\na curious kangaroo | a friendly wallaby<\/figcaption><\/figure>\nGET A LOAD OF THESE BABIES! Their tiny teeth! Their silly hands! Their unbridled curiosity! I\u2019ve been so lucky to meet so many different animals this year \u2013 wild horses in Argentina, seals in Mexico, penguins in Antarctica \u2013 and every time, I\u2019m left feeling a renewed commitment to our planet as a whole. We gotta keep things nice for these little guys, you know? (I posted a video of some of these roos on my Instagram \u2013 a photo doesn\u2019t do them justice!)<\/p>\n\nsnuggling a python | meeting a baby crocodile<\/figcaption><\/figure>\nMy love of animals extends to reptiles, too. If you\u2019ve ever dreamed of snuggling a Python (this was wonderful \u2013 it was about a million degrees with a trillion percent humidity, so he felt like a giant ice pack!) or embracing a baby crocodile (hold right under the jaw to keep them safe!), Hartley\u2019s is worth a stop. <\/p>\n\nhagrid the croc | a chillin\u2019 koala<\/figcaption><\/figure>\nWe also met this nice crocodile, Hagrid (fittingly named for his enormous size), and spent some one-on-one time with a this Koala. <\/p>\n
What to See<\/strong>: The Great Barrier Reef wins this one.<\/p>\nWhat to Skip<\/strong>: I LOVED every single thing we did in Tropical North Queensland. No complaints! No skips! I\u2019ll happily go back. My only word of advice? Don\u2019t go to Hartley\u2019s immediately before heading to the airport \u2013 we spent our 3 hour flight to Sydney drenched<\/em> in sweat. <\/p>\n<\/span>Sydney<\/span><\/h2>\n\nflying in to sydney | the harbour bridge at night<\/figcaption><\/figure>\nDecember 15 + 16 + 17<\/strong>: BUT MAN, LOOK AT THIS PLACE! Sydney, you are officially my favorite city in the world. The flight in was incredible \u2013 get a load of the bridge and the Opera House! \u2013 and we were THRILLED to discover that our hotel had a stunning view of the Harbour Bridge. (When we opened the door to our room the first time, the curtains magically pulled back to reveal our fantastic view. The curtains never opened or shut on their own again \u2013 just the one time, when we first walked in \u2013 which makes it feel even more special. <\/p>\n\ninside the sydney opera house<\/figcaption><\/figure>\nThe next day, we woke up early for a tour of the Opera House. If you\u2019re an architecture dork (guilty as charged!), this is a MUST-DO. I\u2019d never seen any photos of the inside, and it BLEW ME AWAY. It\u2019s a revelation. Total mastery of engineering and design. And it has such a fraught history, too! <\/p>\n\nin front of the harbour bridge | meeting a seagull patrol dog <\/figcaption><\/figure>\nAfter our tour, we hopped on a small boat for an afternoon sail through the Harbour. This is worth it!!! We eventually stopped for dinner near the Opera House and met a handful of Seagull Patrol dogs \u2013 they\u2019re contracted by the city to protect people from pesky flying thieves. The handlers have a blast; the dogs have a blast; local businesses no longer need to extend refunds for spoiled food; and tourists (like us!) love seeing the pups at work. <\/p>\ni far prefer these to the \u201cgreat white zone\u201d signs on cape cod, TBH<\/figcaption><\/figure>\nThe next day, we walked through historic Sydney (which, again, looks NOTHING LIKE SANTA MONICA \u2013 it puts LA to shame!) before catching a ferry to the town of Manly. I\u2019d hoped to swim while Brenda relaxed on the beach, but our plans were foiled by a hammerhead shark. (Note that the native Australians swimming in the background do not seem to be particularly worried.) <\/p>\n
What to See<\/strong>: Do ALL the tourist stuff. I know it\u2019s corny, but it\u2019s worth it. Sydney is a rapidly-growing world-class city with stellar public transit, entertainment, dining, and architecture \u2013 I\u2019ve never been so impressed. (Can I move?) <\/p>\nWhat to Skip<\/strong>: You can<\/em> climb the Harbour Bridge\u2026but you\u2019ll be strapped into a thick body suit on top of your clothes, it\u2019s wise to avoid it in the middle of summer. (Alternatively, grab a sunrise or evening slot.) <\/p>\n<\/span>Wellington<\/span><\/h2>\n\ncan you spot my loud luggage? | the wellington cable car<\/figcaption><\/figure>\nDecember 18 + 19<\/strong>: We departed Sydney early on the 18th and caught a \u2013 you guessed it! \u2013 3 hour flight to Wellington, New Zealand. It\u2019s worth noting that the customs and security experience on the bottom half of the planet is SO MUCH BETTER than ours. Laptops stay in bags! Shoes stay on feet! And somehow, after nearly 2 decades, New Zealand airport security agents were the ONLY PEOPLE to ever spot and examine Brenda\u2019s travel scissors. <\/p>\n\nrelevant design details<\/figcaption><\/figure>\nThe next 48 hours are a total blur \u2013 it was windy. It was wet. We were freezing \u2013 so much so that we needed to buy layers! \u2013 but we loved Wellington. (James Cameron and Peter Jackson call it home for a reason!) I was particularly charmed by the vernacular design details \u2013 the sweet manhole covers; the thoughtful bollards; even the crossing signs featured images of the Haka! (A quick clip is on my Instagram \u2013 I just loved it.) <\/p>\n\nthe kombucha mother | cassowary predecessors <\/figcaption><\/figure>\nWe embarked on a quick walking food tour of the city, and I need to highlight a favorite: the KB Kombucha Tap Room. Y\u2019all, I love<\/em> Kombucha. I\u2019ve tried them all! But this kombucha is NEXT LEVEL \u2013 smooth and flavorful, without the acidic\/sour bite that all my friends whine about. If you\u2019re a food and beverage importer, PLEASE BRING THIS TO AMERICA. I will buy $5 bottles until the end of time. <\/p>\nWe closed our time in Wellington with a trip to the Te Papa Museum, which is BY FAR the best interactive museum I\u2019ve ever visited. The staff is so<\/em> passionate about sharing their knowledge and the exhibits are fresh and engaging (think \u201ca real-life giant squid you can walk around\u201d and \u201ca life-size whale heart model for kids to climb in\u201d). <\/p>\nWhat to See<\/strong>: Te Papa Museum! I could have spent a whole day here, if time allowed. Peter Jackson (of Lord of the Rings fame) produced some of the exhibits, so the production value is extraordinary. Cuba Street is great for galleries, vintage stores, cafes, etc. And do some shopping, too \u2013 the conversion rate is AMAZING. ($1 USD = $1.81 NZD!)<\/p>\nWhat to Skip<\/strong>: The wind and weather rained on our parade here, so we left a lot unexplored. Drop your tips in the comments, please!<\/p>\n<\/span>Blenheim & Marlborough <\/span><\/h2>\n\nhouses in marlborough sound<\/figcaption><\/figure>\nDecember 20 + 21<\/strong>: We woke up on the morning of the 20th to a special treat: our travel plans had fallen through, and we would now be taking a tiny propeller plane on a 30 minute flight to the South Island. It was windy, terrifying, and SO MUCH FUN. <\/p>\nWe landed and immediately drove to Picton, a small tourist town on the shores of Marlbourough Sounds. We boarded a boat (spoiler: we are on a boat nearly every day<\/em> for the rest of the trip) and took a lunchtime cruise through the Sounds. I couldn\u2019t get over the beautiful homes dotting the coast, and we met a handful of locals who were kayaking home after grabbing coffee in town. Can you imagine living here and kayaking for your morning coffee? WHAT A DREAM. <\/p>\n\nbalancing my wine consumption with coke zero | fresh green mussels<\/figcaption><\/figure>\nThe food on our boat was FABULOUS. Our captain prepared the best salmon I\u2019ve ever had \u2013 not joking, I\u2019m still thinking about it! \u2013 and we snacked on huge, local green mussels with soy and chili sauce as we sailed past stunning homes and massive fauna. (Since we were in Marlborough, the local Sauvignon Blanc was flowing, too.) After lunch, we tossed leftover mussels back into the water and watched as swarms of blue cod emerged from the depths to feed. <\/p>\n\nadorable (and cuddly \u2013 i tested!) herding dogs \ud83d\ude42<\/figcaption><\/figure>\nThe next morning, we made our way to Kaituna Ridges, a working sheep farm in Blenheim. We were greeted by not one, not two, but NINE friendly herding dogs \u2013 it felt like heaven. The owners, Freddie and Nikita, are a bit younger than me (!!!) and I\u2019m SO IMPRESSED by the incredible business they\u2019ve built. (I was also awed by these dogs, who made quick work of the rugged mountain terrain.) <\/p>\n\nsheep shearing | buff has claimed my blanket<\/figcaption><\/figure>\nWe arrived amidst sheep shearing season, so Freddie graciously showed us how it\u2019s done. I was so taken by the entire process that I splurged on this 100% lambswool blanket, made from wool sheared in this exact spot! It\u2019s an incredible souvenir that has been claimed by Buffalo \u2013 she loves<\/em> it. I\u2019m so, so, so pleased to have such a precious (and functional) memento! Sign up for their mailing list to get a notification when their online store launches!<\/p>\n\nat wither hills | a boat\/plane hybrid at the omaka museum<\/figcaption><\/figure>\nThat afternoon, we popped into Wither Hills Winery for lunch. I felt like I was in a Windows 95 screensaver \u2013 the landscape was STUNNING (and the Sauvignon Blanc was phenomenal \u2013 you can grab it locally at a great price! It\u2019s absolutely my new go-to bottle for dinner parties and host gifts). That evening, we found ourselves dining amongst Peter Jackson\u2019s plane collection at the Omaka Aviation Heritage Museum. <\/p>\n
What to See<\/strong>: Marlborough Sounds, and as many wineries as you\u2019re able to fit in (they\u2019re world-famous for a reason). You\u2019ll also be surrounded by sheep \u2013 take an afternoon to visit a working farm! (Or tell Kaituna Ridges I sent you \u2013 you couldn\u2019t support nicer folks.) <\/p>\nWhat to Skip<\/strong>: I\u2019m not a big war gal, so the Omaka experience was lost on me. If you\u2019re into aviation or battle, you might love it! But I\u2019d prioritize enjoying the beautiful scenery outdoors.<\/p>\n<\/span>Te Anau & Milford Sound<\/span><\/h2>\n\nthe forest outside the caves | a map of the cave system<\/figcaption><\/figure>\nDecember 22 + 23<\/strong>: We slept in a bit on the 22nd before catching a 90 minute flight to Tea Anau, a tiny town on the South Island. Brenda is a trooper, so she agreed to catch a ferry with me so we could crawl through a cave (not a joke) in an attempt to see glowworms. <\/p>\nIf you\u2019re not familiar, glowworms are exactly what they sound like \u2013 tiny, glowing cave dwellers that light up. I\u2019ve always wanted to see some in real life \u2013 they\u2019ve been on my bucket list for years! \u2013 and I\u2019m not being hyperbolic when I say that experiencing them firsthand was akin to a religious experience. (This National Geographic video might help you visualize a bit better \u2013 fast forward to :54 for the full glow experience.)<\/p>\n
We weren\u2019t allowed to take photos in the cave (it\u2019s dark, dangerous, and you need your eyes to adjust!) but I\u2019ll never forget the sight of millions of tiny specks of light shining on every surface. It felt like floating in space. I could only think about the people who came before me \u2013 how magical and holy must this cave have felt with nothing but a torch? They must have thought they\u2019d found a path to the stars. (The Te Anau glowworm cave was actually re-discovered in 1948 \u2013 an explorer read a Maori legend about a cave filled with glowing light; he searched for 3 years until he found it.) <\/p>\n\na fun pit stop | a breathtaking view<\/figcaption><\/figure>\nThe next morning, we made an iconic 2 hour drive to the Milford Sound. You can get here by helicopter, plane, car, or boat, but we really enjoyed our bus ride. <\/p>\n\nseals basking on the rocks | a huge waterfall<\/figcaption><\/figure>\nMilford Sound is STUNNING. Full stop. It\u2019s packed with waterfalls, cliff faces, and even a few friendly seals. When we returned to Te Anau, we popped in to the local cinema \u2013 built by the town\u2019s helicopter magnate \u2013 and watched a quick film on the Sound (there\u2019s a shot of the above waterfall at the 1 minute mark that\u2019ll take your breath away). We\u2019d been awed by the experience in the water, but seeing it from the air on the big screen put everything into perspective. (That waterfall, for example, is 3 times as tall as Niagara Falls!) <\/p>\n
What to See<\/strong>: GLOWWORM CAVE. This was by far my favorite experience, and nothing comparable exists anywhere else in the world. Go!!! (Full disclosure: if you\u2019re claustrophobic or scared of being deep inside a cave, you will want to skip this. It did cross my mind that an earthquake could trap us, but that thought was replaced by pure wonder as soon as I spotted glowworms.)<\/p>\nWhat to Skip<\/strong>: You may be tempted to splurge on a flight to Milford Sound \u2013 don\u2019t! The drive is absolutely worth the time. <\/p>\n<\/span>Queenstown<\/span><\/h2>\n\npeaches and cheese \u2013 stellar | 3 paragliders above our hotel<\/figcaption><\/figure>\nDecember 24 + 25<\/strong>: HELLO, I HAVE THE PERFECT CHRISTMAS ITINERARY FOR YOU! This was the best Christmas of my life (and that\u2019s saying something \u2013 I\u2019ve had some great holidays!). \ud83d\ude42 <\/p>\nOn the 24th, we drove along the shores of Lake Wakatipu on our way to Queenstown. We stopped in for lunch at Kinross Winery, who prepared a meal so fabulous that I need to write about it here. THOSE PEACHES! The wine pairings! I loved it. <\/p>\n
We arrived in Queenstown and discovered a bevy of paragliders right outside our hotel window \u2013 I couldn\u2019t have been more charmed. Queenstown is the adventure capital of New Zealand for a reason (as we were about to discover).<\/p>\n\nlupine on the mountainside | a plane over the mountain range<\/figcaption><\/figure>\nWe hopped on a gondola and made our way to the top of Bob\u2019s Peak, which was only a quick jaunt from our hotel. I
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